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sprig of thyme

April 30, 2017

Roasted Cauliflower with Za'atar and Lemon

by Iglika



 

As a child I was obsessed with cauliflower. It was this rare and somehow special and magical vegetable that would come in the fall and will be around for a little bit and then it will disappear, in the same magical way as it appeared, seemingly out of nowhere. I never heard of anyone growing cauliflower, my family didn’t grow cauliflower, I didn’t see any crops of cauliflower and then, boom – out of nowhere, cauliflower shows up at the farmers market for a few days and then it will be gone. How strangely magical I thought. How I loved the cauliflower crunchiness. And how I wanted to eat it all the time. As you are reading this, perhaps you might be thinking that this itself it the strangest story ever, especially if you live in the United States and cauliflower is available all year around and it is as common as bagged lettuce. But you see, it was not like that in Bulgaria when I was a kid. I would only see cauliflower in the fall when my father would bring it home, from the market, in big plastic bags He will then wash it and separate the flowerets, sitting on his chair by the kitchen sink whistling to some traditional Bulgarian song (or a German marching song!), piling the cauliflower florets in a big bowl and happily popping some of them in his mouth. I remember standing by him, all mesmerized by this strange, flower-shaped vegetable and impatiently waiting for him to hand me a floret or a center of a cauliflower stem so I can taste this crunchy, nutty and cabaggelike goodness. I thought that this was the coolest vegetable ever and I couldn’t wait for my father to finish making the winter Giardiniera – the only way I remember Bulgarians from my childhood eating cauliflower.

Then I moved to United States, to what it seemed to me, to be the cauliflower paradise. Cauliflower everywhere. And all the time! Then I tried some of the conventional (or shall we say, food industry) ways of eating cauliflower; boiled, steamed, tasteless and mushy, and I thought to myself that Bulgarians might have been right all along, that the only way to enjoy cauliflower is in the fall and only marinated in Giardiniera. And my love affair with this vegetable started to slowly fall apart, with the exception of occasional cream of cauliflower soup or cauliflower mash. Then, one day, at a restaurant, whose name I don’t remember, I had a warm cauliflower side dish and I was blown away. The cauliflower was cooked, but not over-cooked, and it was deliciously nutty and semi-crunchy, slightly charred and tossed with lemon rind and Parmesan. I ate the whole thing. And I kept thinking about this cauliflower in the days to follow and I was on a mission to recreate the dish. Night after night I will cook and eat cauliflower, until I got the recipe to my taste. And in the process of the eating and cooking and eating, eating, eating my beloved cauliflower and I got reunited.

I took notes of the cauliflower as I remembered it and I have adapted and changed the recipe over time to my taste. I don’t grill the cauliflower (simply because I don’t have a grill) and to achieve its smoky blackened exterior, I cook it in a nicely heated pan where at the end I add a teaspoon of smoked mushroom butter. If you like your cauliflower softer and especially if you have to make it for a large crowd, pop it in the oven on a baking sheet at 425F for 30 min. It still would be quite delicious.

As people say – true love never dies. So go into your kitchen, pour yourself a glass of wine and make something that you love with all of your heart.

 

xoxo

 

Ingredients:

Serves 4 (as a side dish)

Ingredients:
• 1 lemon
• 1 tsp butter
• 1 tbsp Panko bread crumbs
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• 1 small cauliflower, torn or cut in 1-inch florets
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 tsp red pepper flakes
• 1 tbsp smoked mushroom butter (or 1 tsp smoked paprika)
• 1 tbsp Za’atar spice (recipe below) (or store bought)
• 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan
• 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

Za’atar Spice
Combine 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds, 1 tbsp fresh (or dry) thyme leaves and 1 tbsp sumac. Store in an airtight container (if the thyme is fresh let the container open for 2-3 days so the thyme dries). 

 

Directions:

  1. Grate and juice the lemon, place in separate bowls and set aside.

  2. Melt the plain butter in a large non-stick pan, add the bread crumbs and toast until golden-brown, about 30 sec. Set aside in a bowl.

  3. Return the non-stick skillet to the stove, heat it very well on high heat. When nice and hot, add the olive oil, the cauliflower and the salt. Stir well to coat the florets evenly, lower the heat to a medium-high and cook for 2-3 minutes until golden brown without disturbing. Turn (or stir) the florets on the other side and cook for additional 2-3 minutes, until nice and brown (the more charred on the sides tastier they will be). Add the red pepper flakes and the smoked butter (or smoked paprika) and cook for additional minute.

  4. Place the cooked cauliflower in a large bowl, add the lemon zest, half of the lemon juice, the Za’atar spice, bread crumbs, Parmesan and the parsley. Mix well to combine. Taste and add more lemon juice, Za’atar spice or seasoning if needed.

Plate and enjoy.

Tip: This is a wonderful side to poached eggs or roasted chicken. Make a rice bowl of it by adding cooked grains, avocado, tomatoes, sliced cucumbers and a spoonful of yogurt tahini.

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TAGS: cauliflower, lemon, side dish, side, lunch, winter


April 28, 2015

Artichokes with Lemon and Herbs

by Iglika



 

Spring is here and I couldn’t wait for it for too long. I was running out of patience, I wanted to be outside – for hours, wearing sneakers and a jacket. To bike, to see the gentle, green buds coming from the ground and to feel the wind messing up my hair while carrying the sweet fragrance of the magnolia trees. To take a deep breath, to close my eyes and turn my face toward the sun and get all the warm kisses that I missed so much. 

Everyone is outside – squirrels, rabbits (yes, they too – I live in Minnesota, remember), birds, people, dogs – running, jumping, flying – soaking up life. This is the time when I start thinking of my next adventure, of all the places I want to see, of the new town I want to move to, of the new challenges to face. I am excited. I am ready.

My mom used to say that I like to make life challenging. And I always had mixed feelings about that – she made it sound as it was a vice while inside I felt it was a virtue. After all, most of my strength came from running toward all the things in life that looked like huge, rocky mountain that is impossible to climb. And don’t we all have those mountains?! Some are big, some are small, some we face daily and some we climb our entire lives.

This week my huge rocky mountain came in the shape of fresh spring artichokes. All 15 of them eaten by the end of this adventure. I never cooked fresh artichokes before. There were no artichokes in Bulgaria when I was growing up. So I should be worried after all, right – I am dealing with something unfamiliar. As with everything new to us in life, the best thing to do is to simply trust life and...Jump! (And take my advice, my friends the less harsh critiques in the beginning of tthe journey the better.) So here I was with a bag of beautiful spring buds and no clue how to make the best of them. If you are thinking that I failed the first time (and the second time, and the third time, and the fourth time), you are right – a total disaster. And as I stood up in my kitchen late on those nights eating plates of either tasteless, or overcooked, or over marinated (in tons of garlic, salt and white anchovies) artichokes, the most obvious solution came to me – I needed some balance. So I set down and I thought of all the things that actually worked after every disastrous attempts, and I realized that what worked was when the artichokes were gently cooked and flavorful, with a balance of salt, sweetness and brightness, when their texture was soft (but not mushy) and when they had some crunch. Learning that fresh artichokes are at their best when warm and that they soak whatever they are in, I decided to layer flavors in 3 stages to create a subtle complexity and gentle build-up. If you are sweating already by reading this, you shouldn’t. This recipe is no more complicated than making an omelette. It really is. And just as I did, after you cook one from scratch, you will feel really good about yourself. And if you mess up and it doesn’t taste good, try it a second time, and a third time and a fourth. Try a different recipe, until you get there – to the top of the huge, rocky mountain. You will feel great, I promise!

If you haven’t cooked fresh artichokes I have some freshness tips for you below. And if you can’t find artichokes where you live, what are some of your all-time favorite spring recipes?


Tips: 
• Fresh artichokes can be found all year round but they are at their best between March and May.
• An artichoke is fresh when it is heavy for it size and the outer leaves are green/purple and firm. To test, squeeze the artichoke and listen for the squeaky sound. The stem should be firm and green when the tip is trimmed.
• Artichoke leaves have small spikes at each end. Be careful when handling. Trim any remaining spikes before cooking using kitchen scissors.
• Don’t attempt to eat the choke, it has its name for a reason!
• Artichokes oxidize really quickly, cut them when ready to use. Once cut, place artichokes immediately cut side down in a bowl of lemon water.
• Store fresh artichokes in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for about 3 days.

 

Artichokes with Lemon an Herbs

Serves 4 (side dish, appetizer, lunch)

 

Ingredients:

• 2 large lemons
• 4 medium size artichokes
• 1/2 cup white wine
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled
• 1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped
• 1 tbsp fresh dill, chopped
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 1 tbsp raw walnuts, finely chopped
• Salt

 

Directions:

  1. Juice the first lemon and zest 1/2 of it. Place the zest in a bowl, cover and set aside. Pour the juice in a large pot with 1/2 cup of water and the wine. Working with 1 artichoke at a time, trim the dark end of the stem and peel 3-4 layers of the outer tough leaves. Trim about 1 inch from the top and peel the fibrous green stem and leaf ends using a vegetable peeler. Halve the artichoke lengthwise and scoop the choke with a spoon. Place each cleaned half cut side down in the pot with the lemon/wine mixture.

  2. Add 3 of the garlic cloves and 1/2 tsp of salt to the pot and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to low and simmer for 30-40 minutes turning artichokes half-way through. The artichokes are done when a knife tip is inserted to the heart and the flesh is as soft as a cooked potato.

  3. Meanwhile, make the remaining garlic clove into a paste and place in the bowl with the lemon zest. Add parsley, dill, the juice of the remaining lemon, 2 tbls olive oil and 1/4 tsp of salt. Mix well and set aside.

  4. Place the artichokes on a large plate and spoon about 1 tsp of the marinade on each one, making sure that some of the marinade gets in between the leaves. Let them cool for 10 min.

  5. Heat the remaining 1 tbsp of olive oil in a heavy bottom or cast iron skillet. Add the artichoke halves cut side down and lower heat to a medium-high. Cook until golden brown, for about 1 minute, turn the artichokes and cook for additional 30 seconds. Transfer the artichokes to a large plate. Add the walnuts to the marinade, mix well and spoon about half of the mixture over the artichokes.

Serve while still warm with a side of the remaining marinade.

Pour glasses of some vibrant white wine and eat!

 

Eating Tip (if you are an artichoke novice!):
Start eating the artichoke from the center where the leaves are soft. When close to the outer leaves (don’t be afraid and use your hands) eat only the lower, soft part of the leaf by scraping it (with your front teeth). The heart and the stem are the best parts, cut them up and enjoy!

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TAGS: lunch, appetizer, side, artichokes, Vegetarian, Vegan, spring


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